La Cabra Quemada
Dark-amber glossy spreadable caramel; lighter mahogany than dulce de leche
Goat-milk caramel, butterscotch, brown butter, cinnamon
Caramelised goat-milk, butterscotch, brown butter
Cinnamon, faint goat-musk, salted-caramel edge
Thick, glossy, spreadable; pours slowly from a spoon
Very long, sweet-caramel, with a subtle goat-tang resonance
Cajeta is the Mexican (Celaya, Guanajuato) goat-milk version of dulce de leche, the signature long-cooked milk caramel of Latin America.
The technique is patient: pasteurised goat milk, sugar, water, cinnamon and bicarbonate of soda are reduced together over low heat for four to six hours, until lactose and proteins caramelise into a dark-amber spreadable paste. Bicarbonate raises the pH, prevents curdling and aids browning. The goat milk delivers a more pungent, slightly tangy finish than the bovine dulce de leche of Argentina, caprylic notes intermingle with caramelised milk solids. The Burnt Goat has the slight goat-musk that distinguishes it from cow's-milk caramel, plus the longer-cooked burnt-sugar deeper register.
Zales & Rego - Alcorcón, Madrid
Four to six hours. No shortcuts.
“Cow's milk caramel is sweet. Goat's milk caramel remembers where it came from.”
